miércoles, 25 de abril de 2018

VPO 2481 YVES SAINT LAURENT.-

"Love me forever, or never" was the final message of the Fall/Winter Haute Couture collection of 1970-71 embroidery in a multicolored silk velvet coat with applique letters forming the iconic phrase. Silk velvet is mixed with other fabrics such as crepe or satin and applications of different fabrics are present in the entire collection.


The dress is described as "Cocktail dress of black crepe and black velvet", according to the text in the book "YVES SAINT LAURENT" published in 1983 by the Metropolitan Museum of Art New York. Introduction by Diana Vereland and texts by Pierre Bergé, Paloma Picasso, Catherine Deneuve and others.


The pattern. Vogue Paris Original 2481. Misses´Evening dress and cape. 9 pieces. Semi-fitted, contrast bodice with low waistline, round neckline and full length sleeves is attached to midi length flared skirt. Separate cirular cape (lined to edge with self fabric), has back neckline slit with button and thread loop closing.

domingo, 15 de abril de 2018

SMOKING in the rain.-

Sewing for friends. CRISTINA wears a tailored tuxedo suit at the annual PASSEJADA AMB BARRET held in Barcelona's downtown on April 14, 2018. Photo by STEPHEN WHITWELL.


Although it is a daytime event, it was intended to bring the elegance of the "black tie" to the celebration. So it's actually a three-piece SUIT consisting of a jacket, pants and vest, and also a cotton shirt with classic wing collar topped with a black silk bow tie also made for the purpose. Some references herehere and here.

The beginning. Choosing fabrics, matching textures, sewing and ironing tests, this is essential for a perfect garment.


The jacket is classic single-breasted and has a DOUBLE WELT POCKET, side panel, and two-piece sleeve. It has been made in BARATHEA (Grain de poudre), wool fabric from ELPON, and lined with viscose twill. Contrast PEAK LAPEL in black silk satin duchesse from MARCO PASCALI.


Trousers are straight with IN-SEAM POCKETS, shaped waistband and side trimming (Formal pants should always have a grosgrain, silk or satin trim down the leg. "Bona fide fancy braiding" is the real classic).

The vest is a classic not-lapel WAISTCOAT, made in the same fabric as the suit with a center front three-button closure.

The shirt is also the classic DRESS SHIRT with winged collar, long sleeves with French cuffs, made of white shirting cotton fabric. Small antique buttons of black wood and made to measure bow tie in black silk satin duchesse.

/------------------------------------------/

Sewing. A traditional tailoring contruction process has been followed for all garments. Some references here and here.


Padding the chest of a jacket. Pad stitches are a type of running stitch made by placing small stitches perpendicular to the line of stitching. Pad stitches secure two or more layers of fabric together and give the layers more firmness; smaller and denser stitches create more firmness. They may also be used to enforce an overall curvature of the layers (WIKIPEDIA).

martes, 20 de marzo de 2018

VPO 2093 Yves Saint Laurent - Halter bodice evening dress.-



ALEXANDRE hairstyle for "Yves Saint Laurent" Haute-Couture spring/summer 1968. L´Officiel de la Mode 555-556 from 1968. Scan from LES EDITIONS JALOU.

VOGUE PARIS ORIGINAL 2093.- One-Piece evening dress. Floor length gathered skirt attached to halter bodice gathered to neckband. Bodice criss-crossed low at side. Purchase belt.

Instructions sheet: Fully lined, underlined bodice, lap bodice front over bodice back ends in a deep armhole. Side zipper and hook & eyes bodice closure.


According to the VINTAGE PATTERNS WIKIA this pattern was featured on February/March 1969 Vogue Pattern Book, and presumably belongs to the Spring/Summer 1968 Haute Couture collection.
From Blog Pattern VaultGoddess Gowns 

miércoles, 14 de febrero de 2018

LBD - Vogue 1567 top + LEHENGA skirt.-

A little black dress is a black evening or cocktail dress, cut simply and often quite short. Fashion historians ascribe the origins of the little black dress to the 1920s designs of Coco Chanel and Jean Patou intended to be long-lasting, versatile, affordable, accessible to the widest market possible and in a neutral colour. Its ubiquity is such that it is often simply referred to as the "LBD".

The "little black dress" is considered essential to a complete wardrobe by many women and fashion observers, who believe it a "rule of fashion" that every woman should own a simple, elegant black dress that can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion: for example, worn with a jacket and pumps for daytime business wear or with more ornate jewelry and accessories for evening or a formal event such as a wedding or a ball. Source WIKIPEDIA


VOGUE 1567 Close-fitting top with dolman sleeves + LEHENGA SKIRT, both Paco Peralta-designer original.

For both garments I used stretch-wool crepe from TISSUS DE RÊVE. Skirt is fully lined with light stretch lining (polyester 100%), specifically designed to be used as a lining for underneath stretch fabrics.

Available patterns:

VOGUE 1567 Top & Skirt

LEHENGA skirt

Shoes: ZARA. Gold and Lapis lazuli earrings: JURA GOLUB Atelier

Special thanks to the COLORS-UP team

viernes, 9 de febrero de 2018

Pattern Review: Vogue 1567 Top/Skirt.-



VOGUE 1567 Paco Peralta / Designer Original. Pattern description, from VOGUE PATTERNS website: Close-fitting top has dolman sleeves. Skirt has waistband with side draping that forms pockets.


I used black & white gingham taffeta (100% polyester) for the skirt, and black viscose/rayon knit for the top.


Seams are finished with double fold bias of black lining what makes it look clean and well-finished.



Special thanks to the COLORS-UP team. Location: COLORS-UP headquarters

Sandals: Mango. Vintage nacre/silver earrings: Scooter Jewellery-Paris

Check out PatternVault blog for more details of Paco Peralta's patterns for Vogue