Skirt "A" is a simple and easy to make model. The seams can be ironed open, in which case you will have flared skirt, but if you want to obtain a pleated visual effect you can follor this simple sewing trick that will be explained in the tutorial that follow. For the sample, I have used a thick linen blend fabric, with enough weight and drape, excellent for this model.
1).- Sew all vertical seams and stop when you reach 10 cm. above the hem. Leave an aperture for the zipper on one of the seams.
2).- Clip the seam allowance (marked with a notch on the pattern) clase to the stitch line, being careful not to cult the stitches. Te seam allowance aobve the clip must be finished and ironed open, while the seam allowance under the clip must fe finished an ironed together.
3).- Reinforce the waistband with interlining and sew to the skirt. Iron open the seam.
4).- Assemple the zipper on the aperture that has been left for that purpose (center back). Fold down the waistband, iron the fold and leave it kile tat for now so you can later sew on the lining to the inside.
5).- Sew the hem. Finish the vertical seams sewing on topo o the hem up to the edge. The botton edge of the seam allowance must be clipped and han sew to one side.
6).- Open the waistband and sew the lining to its inner seam allowance. Fold down and sew all the seam allowances together.
Mode "B" has 8 added godets on the vertical seams, which gives more flared and is ideal for lightweigth fabrics like chiffon or silk georgetter, mousseline, satin, etc.
In this case, I´ve used very light Chantilly-Lace fabric, reinforced with a soft and sheer silk organza underlining. The lining is made of Honan-Silk, very light as well.
1).- Reinfore all pieces with silk organza. To make it easier to work with we can use the "sandwich" method and cut both lace and organza over a paper base, sew on top and them remove the paper.
2).- Sew all vertical seams, stopping where the godets will be place and leaving an aperture on the center back seam to place later on the zipper.
3).- Sew the godets on the vertical seams stopping when your reach the pattern marking.
4).- Sew all the vertical seams of the lining.
5).- Sew the waistband to the skirt. As an inside reinforcement of the waistband we will use grosgrain ribbon of the right widhg. The ribbon gets sewn on its edge and over the stitching of the waistband. Secure the seam allowances over the grosgrain ribbon with a cartch stitch. Secure as well the top edge of the grosgrain ribbon to the waistband.
6).- Sew the zipper, all the way through the waistband stitching up to the edge of its fold line.
7).- On the inside, tuck in and hand stitch the waistband fabric.
8).- Baste the wavy edged trimming to the bottom edge of the skirt (the hem).
9).- Using a dense zigzag stitch follow the design of the trimming. Carefully trim the excess fabric clse to the zigzag stitching. On the right side trim as well the excess fabric of the wavy edge trimming. If we hace enourgh trimming we can also finish off the hem of the lining.
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