Pattern review - Vogue pattern 1526 Jacket.-

VOGUE 1526 Paco Peralta - designer original. Description from VOGUE PATTERNS website: Fitted jacket has short dolman sleeves and midriff waist insert.

I used black linen fabric from LIBERTY LONDON, underlined (deviating from the pattern's sewing instructions), with wigan cotton fabric.

When it comes to choosing an underlining, use what works, there are no rules as to which is the "correct " stabilizer to use, except that is must suit the fabric and the style. Always sample underlining with the fabric to find the best one for your proyect (Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers).

Understanding underlining.

La chaqueta, confeccionada en lino negro semi-grueso, está entretelada/reforzada completamente con organza de algodón también de color negro. Esta técnica se denomina "Montar a PLA" o coser a "PLA", que como el propio término indica significa "duplicar", y simplemente consiste en suporponer los dos tejidos (tela y tejido de soporte), para obtener la consistencia deseada. Seguidamente se procede a coser como si se tratase de una sola capa de tela.

Apart from the pattern's sewing instructions: Preparing the under collar, pad stitching.

Pad stitches are a type of running stitch made by placing small stitches perpendicular to the line of stitching. Pad stitches secure two or more layers of fabric together and give the layers more firmness. They may also be used to enforce an overall curvature of the layers. 

El cuello está entretelado con una capa de entretela fusible de punto delgada y seguidamente "picado a mano" para darle forma.

Signature details.- In-seam buttonholes are made on the seam of the jacket. It´s basically an opening that creates a slot for the buttons.

Sewing tips: Usually coat and jacket buttons need a little slack to fit through thicker plackets. How to sew a shank button.

Ojales en la costura.- Básicamente es una abertura en la costura de la tela, creando una ranura para los botones.

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LBD - Vogue 1567 top + LEHENGA skirt.-

A little black dress is a black evening or cocktail dress, cut simply and often quite short. Fashion historians ascribe the origins of the little black dress to the 1920s designs of Coco Chanel and Jean Patou intended to be long-lasting, versatile, affordable, accessible to the widest market possible and in a neutral colour. Its ubiquity is such that it is often simply referred to as the "LBD".

The "little black dress" is considered essential to a complete wardrobe by many women and fashion observers, who believe it a "rule of fashion" that every woman should own a simple, elegant black dress that can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion: for example, worn with a jacket and pumps for daytime business wear or with more ornate jewelry and accessories for evening or a formal event such as a wedding or a ball. Source WIKIPEDIA

VOGUE 1567 Close-fitting top with dolman sleeves + LEHENGA SKIRT, both Paco Peralta-designer original.

For both garments I used stretch-wool crepe from TISSUS DE RÊVE. Skirt is fully lined with light stretch lining (polyester 100%), specifically designed to be used as a lining for underneath stretch fabrics.

Available patterns:

VOGUE 1567 Top & Skirt

LEHENGA skirt

Shoes: ZARA. Gold and Lapis lazuli earrings: JURA GOLUB Atelier

Special thanks to the COLORS-UP team

Pattern Review: Vogue 1567 Top/Skirt.-

VOGUE 1567 Paco Peralta / Designer Original. Pattern description, from VOGUE PATTERNS website: Close-fitting top has dolman sleeves. Skirt has waistband with side draping that forms pockets.

I used black & white gingham taffeta (100% polyester) for the skirt, and black viscose/rayon knit for the top.

Seams are finished with double fold bias of black lining what makes it look clean and well-finished.

Special thanks to the COLORS-UP team. Location: COLORS-UP headquarters

Sandals: Mango. Vintage nacre/silver earrings: Scooter Jewellery-Paris

Check out PatternVault blog for more details of Paco Peralta's patterns for Vogue

Pattern Review: Vogue V1550 Tunic/Pants.

Vogue 1550 PACO PERALTA - Designer Original Pattern Description. From VOGUE PATTERNS website: Semi-fitted, pullover tunic have contrast inset at center front, contrast binding and uneven hemline: wrong side of fabric will show. Loose-fitting pants have no waist band. C: Contrast insets and binding. D: Contrast binding.

I made view A (short tunic), and  D (Long pants). I used black linen (100% linen woven), and gray silk organza for the center front contrast inset.*

Right to left: Outside & Inside view of the front inset (detail).

 

All-in-one facing detail and binding.

Tunic: Mitered corners (hem finishes detail).

Special thanks: Handmade artisanal "Constructivist" earrings made of resin and steel, from 2011 collection, by JURA GOLUB (Russian born jeweler established in Barcelona). * Location: GOLUB´s jewelry wokshop in Barcelona (Carrer de la Diputació 349 - Barcelona).

Turn a KIMONO JACKET into a HOUSECOAT

A bathrobe, dressing gown, morning gown or housecoat is a robe, a loose-fitting outer garment, which may be worn by men or women. A dressing gown may be worn over nightwear or other clothing, or with nothing underneath. Dressing gowns are typically worn around the house and bathrobes may sometimes be worn after a body wash or around a pool. They may be worn for warmth, as a convenient covering over nightwear when not being in bed, or as a form of lingerie. A dressing gown or a housecoat is a loose, open-fronted gown closed with a fabric belt that is put on over nightwear on rising from bed, or, less commonly today, worn over some day clothes when partially dressed or undressed in the morning or evening (for example, over a man's shirt and trousers without jacket and tie). Source WIKIPEDIA

 

Make a lovely robe (housecoat) using the BCN-Unique Kimono jacket pattern. The only alterations to the pattern are lengthening the sleeves and the body of the pattern. For the outer shell I used cotton fabric and the inner shell is made of poly-fleece.

 

 Inseam buttonhole finishes and detail

Kimono Jacket - AVAILABLE PATTERN