LEHENGA Skirt.-

LEHENGA SKIRT.- Midi or maxi, lined, flared, four gore skirt in two lengths: Mid-calf or anckle length. Rolled hem for wovens or twin needle hem for knits. Shaped waist (waist facing), and back zipper closure.

FRONT VIEW

SHAPED WAISTBAND

BACK ZIPPER

FINISHED HEM

                                                                 

DESIGN SKETCH

FULL DESCRIPTION PATTERN (see here).

YVES SAINT LAURENT & HALSTON (A little collection) - Fashioning the 70s.-

Left to right: Roy Halston, Loulou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent, Nan Kempner, Steve Rubell. 1977. Picture via PUBLIC DOMAIN.

Yves Saint Laurent + Halston - Fashioning the 70´s.

This fascinating publication is the first to examine side by side the careers and work of two of the biggest names in 20th-century fashion, Yves Saint Laurent (1936–2008) and Halston (1932–1990). Their designs—chic, sexy, and glamorous—came to exemplify the 1970s, a singular and dynamic era in fashion history. Inspired by menswear, foreign cultures, and wide-ranging historical periods, and employing new fabrics, YSL and Halston together crafted a new and distinctly modern way of dressing...... ( read more ).

Text and picture via: YALE UNIVERSITY PRESS

EXHIBITION page I. EXHIBITION page II. EXHIBITION blog.

MORE INFO about this event at SARAH´s blog.

HALSTON, shirt dress, tan ULTRASUEDE, 1972. Image via PUBLIC DOMAIN.

McCall´s 4758 - From 1975. Wrap dress, hooked and snapped in front has 1" blousing in center back, elastic in waistline casing, pockets and belt. Sleeves "cut in one" with fronts and backs have gussets.

McCall´s 6151. Misses´Unlined jacket and skirt.- Buttoned jacket has forward and extended shoulder line, collar and tie belt; long sleeves are pleated into buttoned cuffs; short sleeves turn up to form cuffs. Skirt, gathered into waistband, has side seam pockets and left side zipper.

1976. HALSTON "Sarong" dress and stole, gold hammered silk satin. Image via PUBLIC DOMAIN.

McCall´s 5103 from 1976. Lined dress in two lengths has raglan sleeves; stay is drawn thru neckline casing and bow is tacked. Long sleeves are 1" shorter than regular length.

MORE INFO about this dres at DUSTIN´s blog.

McCall´s 6531. Misses´dress. Buttoned, bias cut dress (without shoulder seams), has notched collar, dolman sleeves, elastic in waistline casing, and tie belt; back yoke is an extension of bodice fronts. Inside pockets and welts are optional.

McCall´s 4046. Pullover dress without side seams, has side darts, slightly dropped shoulder line and gathered upper center front.

McCall´s 6172. Misses´top and skirt. Wraap top A,B (without shoulder seams), has standing collar, sleeves gathered into snapped cuffs; buckled belt is optional. Tob B has elastic in waistline casing. Skirt, gathered into waistband, has pockets in side front seam openings and zipper in side back seam opening.

Left: Saint Laurent RIVE GAUCHE, ensemble, off-white wool, brown velveteen, and off-white nylon. 1976. Right: Halston, ensemble, off-white wool. 1971/72.

Picture and text via THE MUSEUM AT FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology).

McCall´s 5829. Misses´cape and skirt. Contrast cape lining is optional. Bias, fitted and flared skirt has back zipper.

Bias cut silk charmeuse ensembles. 1977. Image via THE MUSEUM AT FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology).

McCall´s 5487. Tunic A and top B, cut on the bias have collar, and shaped lower edge; sleeves, cut in one with front and back are gathered into snapped cuffs. Top, without shoulder seams has bias scarf. Pants, without side seams have elastic in waistline casing.

McCall´s 4274. From 1974. Front wrap top without shoulder seams has lined front and back, deep cut armholes, inside ties and sash; unlined sleeves have elastic in casings. Lined pants have elastic in wistline casing.

YVES SAINT LAURENT released patterns.

HALSTON at PATTERN VAULT.

HALSTON at MIKE-MINE-VOGUE.

YVES SAINT LAURENT at PATTERN VAULT.

YVES SAINT LAURENT at MIKE-MINE-VOGUE.

All patterns from my collection.

CASSOCK coat pattern (New release).-

MISSES´Coat. Semi-fitted single breasted coat with or without collar. Lined, princess seams, side panels (no side seams), inseam pockets, and two-piece full length sleeves. A slightly flared style and just below knee length.

ABRIGO semi entallado con cuello opcional, forrado. Cierre delantero con costuras longitudinales, costadillos (sin costuras laterales), manga larga de dos piezas y largo por debajo de la rodilla.

FRONT (delantero)

SIDE FRONT (costado delante)

BACK (espalda)  

OPTIONAL COLLAR (cuello opcional)

PATTERN COVER (carátula)

SIZES                     38                            40                             42                               44     

BUST            84 cm (32")             88 cm (34"    )            92 cm (36")              96 cm (38"   )
WAIST          66 cm (26")             70 cm (27,5 ")            74 cm (29")              78 cm (30,5")
HIP                90 cm (35")             94 cm (37"    )            98 cm (39")            102 cm (40,5")

AVAILABLE PATTERN (patrón disponible).

USEFUL SEWING TUTORIALS (tutoriales).-

TAILORING METODS (sastrería).

SEWING A JACKET (confección chaqueta).

INSEAM POCKETS (bolsillos en las costuras).

BUTTONHOLES (ojales).

INSEAM BIAS BINDING TAPE (biés de adorno).

IRON-ON BIAS TAPE (beta).

SEWING REVIEW (part 1), by Tany from COUTURE ET TRICOT.

SEWING REVIEW (part 2), by Tany from COUTURE ET TRICOT.

CASSOK coat shots. By Tany from TANY ET LA MODE

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.-

Todos los derechos reservados. Está prohibida la reproducción y distribución total o parcial de los textos e imágenes que aparecen en este sitio, así como su traducción a cualquier idioma sin la autorización del autor. Queda prohibida también la utilización por parte de terceros no autorizados.

All rights reserved.  It is prohibited to reproduce and distribute in
whole or in part the text and images that appear here, including in
translation in any language, without authorization from the author.
It is also prohibited to use this information if obtained from
unauthorized third parties.

VPO 1806 - Yves Saint Laurent.- "Le robe-manteau avec garnitures"

Haute-Couture Spring/Summer 1967. AFRICAINE. Trench-coats, gabardines, shirt dresses, "Bain de Soleil" knit dresses, vests and pants "Tennis Stripes", navy blue dresses with white pique collar, "Smoking" vests, crepe "Two color" dresses....

Image from: LES ÉDITIONS JALOU (L´Officiel de la Mode).

Vogue Paris Original 1806. One-piece dress. Semi-fitted double-breasted coat dress, with or without detachable constrast collar and French cuffs; bias notched collar. Full length sleeves. Welt pockets. Top-stitch trim. Purchased or self belt worn below waistline.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La robe imprimée plissée"

Yves Saint Laurent HAUTE COUTURE Hiver-1970.-HIPPIE Collection. Patchwork coats, embroidered Chinese tunics, suede coats, velvet tunics, pleated pants, backless dresses, lame "Dalmatics", long coats and woolen prints. Patchwork chinese embroidered coats and dresses.

Long four pockets jacket and long pleated skirt made in wool printed fabric (violet, green and "bleuté"). Pictures and texts from L´Officiel de la Mode - Les Éditions Jalou

Left: Silk shirt dress whit below knee pleated skirt.  Tailor jacket in worsted wool. Right: Long tunic, scarf and pleated skirt. Pictures and texts from L´Officiel de la Mode - Les Éditions Jalou.

Left: Dress with ruffles skirt made in black and silver sequins fabric. Right: Soft tunics over a pleated skirts. Pictures and texts from L´Officiel de la Mode - Les Éditions Jalou.

Vogue Paris Original 2478.- Loose-fitting, slightly shaped, jewel neckline dress, two inches below knee or midi length, has front and buttoned back yoke. Front and back top-stitched tucks releases into pleats below hipline. Full length sleeves gathered into shaped buttoned cuff. Edge and top-stitch trim.

Furnishing fabric designed by Yves Saint Laurent and made by Osman Textiles. Picture and text from VADS.

VPO 2313 - Yves Saint Laurent.- "Les Classiques"

COUTURE Spring / Summer 1979.- Collection LES CLASSIQUES. White gabardine pantsuits. White chiffon blouses. Tunics. Black silk jersey pants. Spencer jackets, navy and white crepe skirts and pants. Satin evening dresses.

YSL advertisings from L´Officiel de la Mode nº 650 - 1979. Pictures from L´OFFICIEL DE LA MODE (Les Éditions Jalou).

Vogue Paris Original 2313. MISSES´COAT AND DRESS. Very loose-fitting, lined, floor length coat has standing collar, slightly extended shoulders and full length sleeves.  Floor length dress, very closely fitted through the bustline, with halter strap, has one-piece, bias, empire bodice gathered at center front with attached bias bow.  Skirt and overskirt are gathered into bodice seam.  Skirt has front zipper closing and left side hemline slit.  Front-wrapped and draped overskirt has shaped front hemline. Very narrow hem finished by hand or machine.

LINKS.-

I HEART DISCO by Sarah from PATTERN-VAULT blog.

VPO 2337 - Yves Saint Laurent: "La tunique chinoise"

TUNIQUE: Une tunique est un vêtement ample qui couvre le buste, les épaules et le dos. Elle s'enfile par la tête grâce à une large encolure parfois boutonnée ou élastique. Les manches sont courtes ou longues. (Wikipédia).

Yves Saint Laurent RIVE GAUCHE 1979. satin façonné à grandes fleurs, boutonnage en biais, pantalon étroit, c'est une tenue pour chinoise de luxe. La ceinture est une cordelière de soie à perles de cristal, bijoux et sandales d´Yves Saint Laurent, coiffures Yvan Guillaume. Photo provenant de Les Éditions Jalou.

YSL Couture 1979: Manteau rehaussé de boutons de strass porté sur une robe-fourreau en jersey de soie. Accessoires Yves Saint Laurent. Coiffures Alexandre. Photo provenant de Les Éditions Jalou.

Yves Saint Laurent RIVE GAUCHE 1981: Ensemble en soie multicolore; veste à petit col montant et pantalon à taille ceinturée. Accessoires Yves Saint Laurent. Photo provenant de Les Éditionos Jalou.

Vogue Paris Original 2337. MISSES´TOP OR TUNIC AND PANTS, OR DRESS. Loose fitting lined-to-edge top, tunic or dress, below hip, three inches (7,5 cm.) below mid-knee or floor length. Has standing collar, center front neckline slit with button and soutache braid loop closing, extenden shoulders and side hemline slits.  Full length sleeves have slit at lower edge. Purchased foldover braid trim. Lining will show when neckline is worn open. Edgestitching. Very loose-fitting, straight pants with front gathered and pleated and back gathered into waistband, have side pocket zipper closing and pockets in side seams. Topstitch and edgestitch trim.

LIENS.-

COUTURE DRAMA: Yves Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 1979/80  

(By Dustin from MAKE-MINE-VOGUE)

VPO 2016 - Yves Saint Laurent.- "Jerry Hall".

"....When the film BELLE DE JOUR came out in 1967 the fashion world was electrified by the fact that YVES SAINT LAURENT had designed all the dresses. In this scandalous erotic film, CATHERINE DENEUVE plays a bourgeois housewife who has a secret life as a daytime protiture, just for fun. It gave a double life to luxury clothes.
When I arrived in Paris, I was invited to model for  ande then given a contract to model his designs. I appeared in all his catwalk shows, and was thrilled to be asked todo the first photo campaign for his new perfume, OPIUM. The photographs were taken by HELMUT NEWTON (and are reproduced here as magazine tearsheets) and the campaign was a huge success.
Yves was a genius and a charming fragile man.  I got to know him well, because as part of my contract I had to attend high profile parties and events with him - always dressed in couture YSL, of course.

Yves always made you feel as if your opinion mattered. He used to call his design studio "The House of Love". He wanted to know, did you like the outfit..? Did you feel good in it..?.  He was very sensitive; if you thought a dress might look better slightly differente, all you had to do was hold it or lift it a certain way and he would pick up on that and change it and in that way you felt you were contributing and collaborating.  He loved women and he wanted you to be really happy and to think that your outfit was just the best.
I modelled in all of his shows. The last catwalk show I did, in 2002, was a retrospective of his work in Paris. Yves had all the models who´d appeared in his clothes throughout the years, CatherineDeneuve, Veruschka, ClaudiaSchiffer, NaomiCampbell, and many, many others. We showed clothes from the sixties, seventies and eighties. His healt was really failing by then ade he died a few years later, but I will always remember him as a lovely man...."

Text from MY LIFE IN PICTURES.

Jacket and trousers by Yves Saint Laurent, bra by Agent Provocateur, necklace and ring by Chopard, earrings by David Morris and shoes by Manolo Blahnik. Picture from INTERNET.

Jerry Hall, Mick Jagger and Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent & Jerry Hall before sending onto the runway

Vogue Paris Original 2016. Misses´Top, Skirt, Pants and Sash. Very loose-fitting, slightly below-hip length top (may be worn in or out), has round neckline with button and loop closing, center front underlap, extended shoulders, slightly forward shoulder seams, seven-eigths length sleeves and purchases foldover braid trim. Wide contrast sash (wrapped two or three times around waist) holds in fullness at waistline. Mid-calf or evening lenth, front and bac wrapped stright skirt with front and back gathered into waistband has purchased foldover braid trim. Slim, tapered pants with front and back gahtered into waistband has back zipper closing.

Special thanks to Jeannie Brown and Dustin.

VPO 2598 - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La collection du scandale".

Yves Saint Laurent 1971. La collection du scandale.

Printemps-Été 1971.- Collection années 40. Manteaux et blazers gansés... robes chemisiers imprimées... tailleurs pantalons... blazer de gabardine marine, short de flanelle blanc...robes de jersey de soie drapées... robes grecques de jersey de soie imprimée plissée...

 

 

L'OFFICIEL DE LA MODE n°583 de 1971

 

 

A gauche: Simple et charmante, cette robe est en crêpe de chine imprimé de rayures, d'abraham.
La jupe est toute plissée, le corsage est à man- ches courtes et encolure nouée.
Veste en serge pure laine peignée de dormeuil, soulignée de galon.
Les coiffures sont d'alexandre.

A droite: Archétype de la collection ce modèle comporte à la fois un gansé et des épaules «en toit de pagode». La veste a des poches, elle est en lainage. Robe et petit foulard noué au cou.

Textes et photos a partir de: Les Editions Jalou.

Vogue Paris Original 2598. Veste, jupe et pantalons. Veste-Blazer à double boutonnage a col tailleur, larges revers, poches plaquées, épaulettes, manches longues avec évents boutonnées et revenir en arrière poignets. Surpiqûre ou garniture de ruban. Jupe plissée, 5 cm. en dessous du genou, ceinture et surpiqûre garniture. Pantalons droits.

LIENS.-

Image à partir de la page où Facebook de la Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent : anatomie d'un scandale.

VPO 1639 Yves Saint Laurent.- "Le spencer double boutonnage".

SPENCER: Veste croisée pour femme qui descend à peine jusqu'à la taille

YVES SAINT LAURENT Haute-Couture Été 1966. Photos du L'OFFICIEL DE LA MODE (Les Editions Jalou). Collection marin, casquette et paillette Bayadère.- Manteaux de drap double boutonnage... robes jersey bicolore encolures géométriques... cabans et pantalons de lainage... toile... marine... blanc... pull paillettes marine et blanc...  vestes... robes pull de paillettes bayadères... courtes... longues...(Fondation-Pierre-Bergé-Yves-Saint-Laurent).

VOGUE PARIS ORIGINAL 1639. Veste, jupe et blouse (Vogue Pattern Book February/March1967).