lunes, 29 de julio de 2013


Skirt that can be made in two different versions.  This is not a designer model, just a designer version of a classic model.

Skirt "A" is a simple and easy to make model.  The seams can be ironed open, in which case you will have flared skirt, but if you want to obtain a pleated visual effect you can follor this simple sewing trick that will be explained in the tutorial that follow. For the sample, I have used a thick linen blend fabric, with enough weight and drape, excellent for this model.

1).- Sew all vertical seams and stop when you reach 10 cm. above the hem. Leave an aperture for the zipper on one of the seams.
2).- Clip the seam allowance (marked with a notch on the pattern) clase to the stitch line, being careful not to cult the stitches.  Te seam allowance aobve the clip must be finished and ironed open, while the seam allowance under the clip must fe finished an ironed together.

 3).- Reinforce the waistband with interlining and sew to the skirt. Iron open the seam. 

4).- Assemple the zipper on the aperture that has been left for that purpose (center back). Fold down the waistband, iron the fold and leave it kile tat for now so you can later sew on the lining to the inside.
 5).- Sew the hem. Finish the vertical seams sewing on topo o the hem up to the edge. The botton edge of the seam allowance must be clipped and han sew to one side.

 6).- Open the waistband and sew the lining to its inner seam allowance.  Fold down and sew all the seam allowances together. 

Mode "B" has 8 added godets on the vertical seams, which gives more flared and is ideal for lightweigth fabrics like chiffon or silk georgetter, mousseline, satin, etc.
In this case, I´ve used very light Chantilly-Lace fabric, reinforced with a soft and sheer silk organza underlining.  The lining is made of Honan-Silk, very light as well.

 1).- Reinfore all pieces with silk organza. To make it easier to work with we can use the "sandwich" method and cut both lace and organza over a paper base, sew on top and them remove the paper.

 2).- Sew all vertical seams, stopping where the godets will be place and leaving an aperture on the center back seam to place later on the zipper.

3).- Sew the godets on the vertical seams stopping when your reach the pattern marking.

 4).- Sew all the vertical seams of the lining.

 5).- Sew the waistband to the skirt. As an inside reinforcement of the waistband we will use grosgrain ribbon of the right widhg.  The ribbon gets sewn on its edge and over the stitching of the waistband.  Secure the seam allowances over the grosgrain ribbon with a cartch stitch.  Secure as well the top edge of the grosgrain ribbon to the waistband.

 6).- Sew the zipper, all the way through the waistband stitching up to the edge of its fold line.

 7).- On the inside, tuck in and hand stitch the waistband fabric.

 8).- Baste the wavy edged trimming to the bottom edge of the skirt (the hem).

9).- Using a dense zigzag stitch follow the design of the trimming.  Carefully trim the excess fabric clse to the zigzag stitching.  On the right side trim as well the excess fabric of the wavy edge trimming.  If we hace enourgh trimming we can also finish off the hem of the lining.


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whole or in part the text and images that appear here, including in
translation in any language, without authorization from the author.
It is also prohibited to use this information if obtained from
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miércoles, 17 de julio de 2013


With o without sleeves blouse with draped front; it can be made of silk or similar fabrics, includes stretch fabrics (knits). The pattern is simple and easy to sew. It consists of five pieces: Lower front, upper draped front, back, back neckline facing and seleeve.  Sleeveless version: The armholes are finished with bias strips of self fabric (pattern not included), or using a special purpose hemming technique for stretchy fabric (if using knits). Top with sleeves: ONLY for knits.  The patterns is drafted in for alternating sizas: Small, medium, large and X-Large.  A smaller or larger size can easily be obtained using the pattern master lines for grading.

Size S.- Bust 31,5 inch.
Size M.- Bust 34,5 inch.
Size L.- Bust 37,5 inch.
Size X-L.- Bust 40,5 inch.

These pattern were drafted using traditional Haute-Couture methods: Model sketch, first pattern, muslin test garment, fitting on a dressform, fitting on a living model, final adjustmests and final test garment made from fashion fabric. The pattern is hand copied from the original and the designer label is provided, granting this pattern with "exclusive model" status.

This patter is for exclusive use of private customers.  Any copyng of this design for resale of the garment in any form, with o without the name of the designer is strictly forbidden.


lunes, 1 de julio de 2013

VPO-Yves Saint Laurent.- "La robe rose"

RIVE-GAUCHE collection spring/summer 1987. Model: Linda Evangelista

VOGUE 2026. Misses´Dress.- Dress, mid-knee or evening length, has close-fitting, lined, boned, shaped, dropped waist bodice with side front seams, bias binding at upper edge, inside belt, ruffle with stiffening, attached bow, straight or slightly flared skirt and back zipper.

martes, 18 de junio de 2013

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La robe à capuchon"

Haute-Couture spring-summer collection 1985:  "La Reine d´Afrique".

Image via "Les Editions Jalou".

VOGUE 1630. Misses´Dress, Tunic & Skirt.- Very loose-fitting, straight, lined dress, below mid-knee, or tunic has self-lined hood, dropped shoulders, shoulder pads, shoulder bands, blouson bodice, carriers, pockets, front zipper and wrist length sleeves with bands.  Topstitching.  Straight skirt, below mid-knee, has waistband, back zipper and vent.

sábado, 15 de junio de 2013

Cinta al biés termofijable (Iron-on bias cut tape).-

Como hacer nuestra propia "Cinta al biés termofijable" para prevenir estiramientos en sisas y escotes y mantener la forma del patrón. La cinta al sesgo se plancha sobre la zona deseada de tal forma que una parte de la misma queda en el borde de la tela y la costura se hace justo detrás del pespunte de la cinta.

How to make your own "Iron-on bias cut tape" to prevent fabric from stretching or distorting the shape. The band is ironed on in such a way that part of the bias tape remains on the fabric edge and the seam is made just behind the stitch.

1).- Cortamos unas tiras de entretela al bies,  de unos 3 cm. de ancho, y también unas tiras de papel (Se pueden utilizar viejas hojas de patrones, papel de periódico, etc.).   Para este trabajo es perfecta la entretela del tipo "papel", sin tejer.

Cut fusible bias strips, about 3 cm. wide, and some strips of paper (you can use old patterns leaves, newspaper, etc.). For this job is perfect interfacing such as "paper" or "non-woven" interfacing.

2).- Enhebramos la máquina con 2 hilos en la parte superior, colocamos la tira de papel sobre la entretela y pasamos un pespunte por el centro.  Retiramos el papel.

Threading machine with 2 threads at the upper, place the paper strip over interfacing and stitch down the middle. Remove the paper.

 3).- Recortamos la cinta dejándole un ancho de 1 ó 1,5 cm. aproximadamente.

Cut the tape to a 1 or 1,5 cm. wide approx.

 4).- Y ya tenemos la "Cinta al biés" lista para termofijar en áreas curvas, sisas, escotes, etc.

We have the "bias-tape" ready to ironed on curved areas, armholes, necklines, etc.


Todos los derechos reservados. Está prohibida la reproducción y distribución total o parcial de los textos e imágenes que aparecen en este sitio, así como su traducción a cualquier idioma sin la autorización del autor. Queda prohibida también la utilización por parte de terceros no autorizados.

All rights reserved.  It is prohibited to reproduce and distribute in
whole or in part the text and images that appear here, including in
translation in any language, without authorization from the author.
It is also prohibited to use this information if obtained from
unauthorized third parties.

lunes, 10 de junio de 2013

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "Les boutons d'or"

Printemps-Été 1967 - "Collection africaine"


La collection fut partiellement inspirée de l'art primitif et africain. En mars 1967, Harper's Bazaar décrit la collection comme "une fantasie de génie primitif - des coquillages et des bijoux de jungle assemblés pour couvrir la poitrine et les hanches, tréssés pour dévoiler le torse"(Fondation PB-YSL).



VOGUE 1806.- One-piece dress. Semi-fitted double-breasted coat dress, with or without detachable contrast collar and French cuffs; bias notched collar. Full length sleees. Welt pockets. Top-stitch trim. Purchased or self beltworn below waistline.



 "...Un ravissant petit gilet, fermé par des boutons dorés, accompagne ce tailleur en lainage marine de forneris, éclairé par un col blanc et des manchet- tes assorties..."

VOGUE 1793.- Suit and Weskit. Semi-fitted jacket with notched collar has welt pocket, and flap trim; back ent. Full length sleeves have contrast detachable cuffs with cuff link closing. Weskit with welt trim, has detachable contrast collar.  Slightly A-Line wrap around skirt.

Vogue Pattern Book August/September 1967.

viernes, 31 de mayo de 2013

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La veste spencer gansee noir"

CLAUDIA SCHIFFER on the catwalk. RIVE-GAUCHE collection, autumn-winter 1996.

VOGUE 2077. Misses´Jacket & Pants.- Loose-fitting, interfaced, lined, above hip jacket has bias collar, shoulder pads, side panels, no side seams, welt pockets and long, two-piece sleeves. A: Purchased trim. Straight-legged pants (very loose-fitting through hip) have button waistband, carriers, front pleats, side front pockets and mock fly zipper. Purchased belt.

lunes, 27 de mayo de 2013

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La veste pied de poule"

HAUTE-COUTURE Spring/Summer 1981.- Chaqueta de lana "Pata de Gallo", blusa de crep de seda con lazo de satén negro y falda de "grain de poudre" negra. Traje sastre de lana "Príncipe de Gales" y blusa con lazo en crep de china.

Imagen via L´OFFICIEL DE LA MODE - "Les Editions Jalou".

VOGUE 2886. Misses ´Jacket, Skirt and Blouse.- Semi-fitted, lined, below hip length jacket has extended shoulders, shoulders pads, notched collar, front buttoned closing, welt pocket, patch pockets, side panels (no side seams), an full length, two-piece sleeves with vent and button trim at lower edge.  Topstitching.  Slightly A-line skirt, three inces (7,5 cm) below mid-knee length, has front gathered and back pleated into waistband, front back and side pleats, side front slanted pockets and side zipper clonsing.  Loose-fitting blouse has extended shoulders, collar on buttoned band, front buttoned closing, back gathered into self-lined yoke with forward shoulder seams, flat fell seams and full length sleeves gathered into bttoned cuffs with placket. Topstitching, narrow hem and edgestitching.

miércoles, 22 de mayo de 2013

VPO-Yves Saint Laurent.- "La robe corselet à pois"

Yves Saint Laurent RIVE-GAUCHE spring-summer 1983. Image via  L´OFFICIEL DE LA MODE (Les Editions Jalou).

VOGUE 1318.- Misses´Dress. Dress below mid-knee or evening length, has semi-fitted bodice, shaped bias inset with bias ties. Al-line or slightly flared skirt and elboe length sleeves pleated and gathered into cutaway armholes with elastic at lower edge.

jueves, 25 de abril de 2013

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "Tête froncée"

KIRAT - YSL Rive-Gauche 1980. Image via "Top Models of the World".

VOGUE 2471. Misses´Jacket, pants and blouse.-  Semi-fitted, unlined, slightly above-hip length jacket has shoulder pads, front-buttoned trim loop closing, standing collar and patch pockets.  Full length sleeves are gathered at cap. View "A" has purchased foldover braid trim.  Loose-fitting straight legged pants have front tucked into front-buttoned waistband with belt carriers, mock fly front zipper closing and side front slanted pockets.  Very loose-fitting, pullover blouse has buttoned standing collar, front-buttoned band closing, extended shoulders and front and back gathered into yoke with slightly forward seams. Full length sleeves hace gusset and placket gathered into buttoned cuffs.  Jacket, pants and blouse have topstitching and edgestitching.

Released in "Vogue Pattern Book" in August 1980.

viernes, 12 de abril de 2013

Cristina de Prada.-

CRISTINA DE PRADA, amiga, compañera y una excelente modista de sombreros (Hat Milliner). "Enamorada de los sombreros desde su infancia, Cristina de Prada lleva más de 15 años creando prendas para la cabeza que destacan por su alto estándar de calidad y su original diseño. Entre los años 2011 y 2012 ha sido finalista del prestigioso concurso internacional HAT DESIGNER OF THE YEAR. Esta creadora comparte sus conocimientos sobre sombrerería en un  reconocido blog que lleva siete años siendo la referencia obligatoria en el mundo de la creación de sombreros. En una era de marcada globalización, sus sombreros definen la individualidad de sus portadores, diferenciándolos". (Texto: Presentación pop-up "La Roca Village").


LAS ROZAS VILLAGE homenagea al sombrero.


 PATTERN REVIEW.- Vogue 5463 Cape-Stole. Capa/estola en dos largos con cuello chal, fruncida en los costados que se unen a la banda horizontal de la espalda.

El patrón está diseñado como "Easy to Make", aunque hay algunas zonas dificultosas como pueden ser la aplicación de las esquinas de la cinturilla al cuerpo y el coser la prenda como si se tratase de un tejido reversible.  Alteraciones sobre el patrón: He cambiado la forma del cuello para que no quedase tan "plano" y tuviese un efecto más "oriental".  También he dado más volúmen a las "mangas", pues el modelo original queda demasiado "clavado" en el cuerpo, lo que impide la facilidad de movimiento de los brazos.

Special Thanks to JOANNE.

 Imagen via S-MODA (El País Digital).- "Sombrereros que adornan las ideas".

martes, 2 de abril de 2013

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La robe Arlequin"

Juillet 1979 Collection Hommages à Picasso et Diaghilev.-

La Bibliothèque Nationale vient de consacrer une exposition aux Ballets Russes qui a fortement inspiré Yves Saint Laurent qui conçoit la collection "comme un ballet". Il confie à Vogue : "Certaines collections, comme celle-ci, m'apparaissent comme spéciales, je ressens une joie artistique. Et ce qui est extraordinaire, c'est d'accorder cette inspiration à un corps de femme, de ne pas s'enfermer dans l'égoïsme. [...] Picasso, c'est le génie à l'état pur. ça éclate de vie et de franchise. Picasso n'est pas la pureté. Il est le baroque. Il a plusieurs courses, plusieurs arcs, plusieurs flèches à son arc."

Et les broderies, les arlequins, le rose et bleu de la collection seront salué par Vogue comme "le soir le plus grand" et par le New York Times comme "le Cordobès des podiums".

 PATRICK BERTRAND au "Le Boeuf sur le Toit". Yves Saint Laurent : Robe du soir en crêpe de satin noir et blanc, la robe est découpée en carrés noirs et blancs opposés entre le buste et la jupe, encolure arrondie, ceinture en satin nouée sur le côté; le collier ras de cou est en jais noir bordé de perles; il porte un smoking de Christian Dior.

Image via Nan Kempner - UNE AMÉRICAINE À PARIS. Robe de crep blanc e noir 1979.

VOGUE 2406. MISSES´DRESS AND BELT.- Dress with semi-fitted bodice and skirt gathering into below waistline seam, four inches (10 cm) below mid-knee or floor length, has back zipper closing, pockets in side seams, and self or contrast bias tie belt.  Full length sleeves gathered at cap and narrowing at wrist have zipper at lower edge (may be worn pushe up). Views A and C have contrast right front and left back bodice, left front and right back skirt and right sleeve.

Special Thanks to DUSTIN.