miércoles, 12 de septiembre de 2018

Pattern review - Vogue pattern 1526 Jacket.-

VOGUE 1526 Paco Peralta - designer original. Description from VOGUE PATTERNS website: Fitted jacket has short dolman sleeves and midriff waist insert.

I used black linen fabric from LIBERTY LONDON, underlined (deviating from the pattern's sewing instructions), with wigan cotton fabric.

When it comes to choosing an underlining, use what works, there are no rules as to which is the "correct " stabilizer to use, except that is must suit the fabric and the style. Always sample underlining with the fabric to find the best one for your proyect (Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers).

La chaqueta, confeccionada en lino negro semi-grueso, está entretelada/reforzada completamente con organza de algodón también de color negro. Esta técnica se denomina "Montar a PLA" o coser a "PLA", que como el propio término indica significa "duplicar", y simplemente consiste en suporponer los dos tejidos (tela y tejido de soporte), para obtener la consistencia deseada. Seguidamente se procede a coser como si se tratase de una sola capa de tela.

Apart from the pattern's sewing instructions: Preparing the under collar, pad stitching.

Pad stitches are a type of running stitch made by placing small stitches perpendicular to the line of stitching. Pad stitches secure two or more layers of fabric together and give the layers more firmness. They may also be used to enforce an overall curvature of the layers. 

El cuello está entretelado con una capa de entretela fusible de punto delgada y seguidamente "picado a mano" para darle forma.

Signature details.- In-seam buttonholes are made on the seam of the jacket. It´s basically an opening that creates a slot for the buttons.

Sewing tips: Usually coat and jacket buttons need a little slack to fit through thicker plackets. How to sew a shank button.

Ojales en la costura.- Básicamente es una abertura en la costura de la tela, creando una ranura para los botones.