miércoles, 25 de abril de 2018


"Love me forever, or never" was the final message of the Fall/Winter Haute Couture collection of 1970-71 embroidery in a multicolored silk velvet coat with applique letters forming the iconic phrase. Silk velvet is mixed with other fabrics such as crepe or satin and applications of different fabrics are present in the entire collection.

The dress is described as "Cocktail dress of black crepe and black velvet", according to the text in the book "YVES SAINT LAURENT" published in 1983 by the Metropolitan Museum of Art New York. Introduction by Diana Vereland and texts by Pierre Bergé, Paloma Picasso, Catherine Deneuve and others.

The pattern. Vogue Paris Original 2481. Misses´Evening dress and cape. 9 pieces. Semi-fitted, contrast bodice with low waistline, round neckline and full length sleeves is attached to midi length flared skirt. Separate cirular cape (lined to edge with self fabric), has back neckline slit with button and thread loop closing.

domingo, 15 de abril de 2018

SMOKING in the rain.-

Sewing for friends. CRISTINA wears a tailored tuxedo suit at the annual PASSEJADA AMB BARRET held in Barcelona's downtown on April 14, 2018. Photo by STEPHEN WHITWELL.

Although it is a daytime event, it was intended to bring the elegance of the "black tie" to the celebration. So it's actually a three-piece SUIT consisting of a jacket, pants and vest, and also a cotton shirt with classic wing collar topped with a black silk bow tie also made for the purpose. Some references herehere and here.

The beginning. Choosing fabrics, matching textures, sewing and ironing tests, this is essential for a perfect garment.

The jacket is classic single-breasted and has a DOUBLE WELT POCKET, side panel, and two-piece sleeve. It has been made in BARATHEA (Grain de poudre), wool fabric from ELPON, and lined with viscose twill. Contrast PEAK LAPEL in black silk satin duchesse from MARCO PASCALI.

Trousers are straight with IN-SEAM POCKETS, shaped waistband and side trimming (Formal pants should always have a grosgrain, silk or satin trim down the leg. "Bona fide fancy braiding" is the real classic).

The vest is a classic not-lapel WAISTCOAT, made in the same fabric as the suit with a center front three-button closure.

The shirt is also the classic DRESS SHIRT with winged collar, long sleeves with French cuffs, made of white shirting cotton fabric. Small antique buttons of black wood and made to measure bow tie in black silk satin duchesse.


Sewing. A traditional tailoring contruction process has been followed for all garments. Some references here and here.

Padding the chest of a jacket. Pad stitches are a type of running stitch made by placing small stitches perpendicular to the line of stitching. Pad stitches secure two or more layers of fabric together and give the layers more firmness; smaller and denser stitches create more firmness. They may also be used to enforce an overall curvature of the layers (WIKIPEDIA).