VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La robe à capuchon"

Haute-Couture spring-summer collection 1985:  "La Reine d´Afrique".

Model: KHADIJA ADAM. Photo: ANTONIO GUCCIONE. Hair: ALEXANDRE. Make-up: CARITA.
Image via "Les Editions Jalou".

VOGUE 1630. Misses´Dress, Tunic & Skirt.- Very loose-fitting, straight, lined dress, below mid-knee, or tunic has self-lined hood, dropped shoulders, shoulder pads, shoulder bands, blouson bodice, carriers, pockets, front zipper and wrist length sleeves with bands.  Topstitching.  Straight skirt, below mid-knee, has waistband, back zipper and vent.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "Les boutons d'or"

Printemps-Été 1967 - "Collection africaine"

 

La collection fut partiellement inspirée de l'art primitif et africain. En mars 1967, Harper's Bazaar décrit la collection comme "une fantasie de génie primitif - des coquillages et des bijoux de jungle assemblés pour couvrir la poitrine et les hanches, tréssés pour dévoiler le torse"(Fondation PB-YSL).

 

Image via PUBLIC DOMAIN.

VOGUE 1806.- One-piece dress. Semi-fitted double-breasted coat dress, with or without detachable contrast collar and French cuffs; bias notched collar. Full length sleees. Welt pockets. Top-stitch trim. Purchased or self beltworn below waistline.

Image via LES EDITIONS JALOU,

Image via PUBLIC DOMAIN.

 "...Un ravissant petit gilet, fermé par des boutons dorés, accompagne ce tailleur en lainage marine de forneris, éclairé par un col blanc et des manchet- tes assorties..."

VOGUE 1793.- Suit and Weskit. Semi-fitted jacket with notched collar has welt pocket, and flap trim; back ent. Full length sleeves have contrast detachable cuffs with cuff link closing. Weskit with welt trim, has detachable contrast collar.  Slightly A-Line wrap around skirt.

Vogue Pattern Book August/September 1967.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La veste spencer gansee noir"

CLAUDIA SCHIFFER on the catwalk. RIVE-GAUCHE collection, autumn-winter 1996.

VOGUE 2077. Misses´Jacket & Pants.- Loose-fitting, interfaced, lined, above hip jacket has bias collar, shoulder pads, side panels, no side seams, welt pockets and long, two-piece sleeves. A: Purchased trim. Straight-legged pants (very loose-fitting through hip) have button waistband, carriers, front pleats, side front pockets and mock fly zipper. Purchased belt.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La veste pied de poule"

HAUTE-COUTURE Spring/Summer 1981.- Chaqueta de lana "Pata de Gallo", blusa de crep de seda con lazo de satén negro y falda de "grain de poudre" negra. Traje sastre de lana "Príncipe de Gales" y blusa con lazo en crep de china.

Imagen via L´OFFICIEL DE LA MODE - "Les Editions Jalou".

VOGUE 2886. Misses ´Jacket, Skirt and Blouse.- Semi-fitted, lined, below hip length jacket has extended shoulders, shoulders pads, notched collar, front buttoned closing, welt pocket, patch pockets, side panels (no side seams), an full length, two-piece sleeves with vent and button trim at lower edge.  Topstitching.  Slightly A-line skirt, three inces (7,5 cm) below mid-knee length, has front gathered and back pleated into waistband, front back and side pleats, side front slanted pockets and side zipper clonsing.  Loose-fitting blouse has extended shoulders, collar on buttoned band, front buttoned closing, back gathered into self-lined yoke with forward shoulder seams, flat fell seams and full length sleeves gathered into bttoned cuffs with placket. Topstitching, narrow hem and edgestitching.

VPO-Yves Saint Laurent.- "La robe corselet à pois"

Yves Saint Laurent RIVE-GAUCHE spring-summer 1983. Image via  L´OFFICIEL DE LA MODE (Les Editions Jalou).

VOGUE 1318.- Misses´Dress. Dress below mid-knee or evening length, has semi-fitted bodice, shaped bias inset with bias ties. Al-line or slightly flared skirt and elboe length sleeves pleated and gathered into cutaway armholes with elastic at lower edge.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "Tête froncée"

KIRAT - YSL Rive-Gauche 1980. Image via "Top Models of the World".

VOGUE 2471. Misses´Jacket, pants and blouse.-  Semi-fitted, unlined, slightly above-hip length jacket has shoulder pads, front-buttoned trim loop closing, standing collar and patch pockets.  Full length sleeves are gathered at cap. View "A" has purchased foldover braid trim.  Loose-fitting straight legged pants have front tucked into front-buttoned waistband with belt carriers, mock fly front zipper closing and side front slanted pockets.  Very loose-fitting, pullover blouse has buttoned standing collar, front-buttoned band closing, extended shoulders and front and back gathered into yoke with slightly forward seams. Full length sleeves hace gusset and placket gathered into buttoned cuffs.  Jacket, pants and blouse have topstitching and edgestitching.

Released in "Vogue Pattern Book" in August 1980.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La robe Arlequin"

Juillet 1979 Collection Hommages à Picasso et Diaghilev.-

La Bibliothèque Nationale vient de consacrer une exposition aux Ballets Russes qui a fortement inspiré Yves Saint Laurent qui conçoit la collection "comme un ballet". Il confie à Vogue : "Certaines collections, comme celle-ci, m'apparaissent comme spéciales, je ressens une joie artistique. Et ce qui est extraordinaire, c'est d'accorder cette inspiration à un corps de femme, de ne pas s'enfermer dans l'égoïsme. [...] Picasso, c'est le génie à l'état pur. ça éclate de vie et de franchise. Picasso n'est pas la pureté. Il est le baroque. Il a plusieurs courses, plusieurs arcs, plusieurs flèches à son arc."

Et les broderies, les arlequins, le rose et bleu de la collection seront salué par Vogue comme "le soir le plus grand" et par le New York Times comme "le Cordobès des podiums".

Texte: FONDATION PB-YSL.

 

Image via L´Officiel de la Mode - Les Editions Jalou.

 PATRICK BERTRAND au "Le Boeuf sur le Toit". Yves Saint Laurent : Robe du soir en crêpe de satin noir et blanc, la robe est découpée en carrés noirs et blancs opposés entre le buste et la jupe, encolure arrondie, ceinture en satin nouée sur le côté; le collier ras de cou est en jais noir bordé de perles; il porte un smoking de Christian Dior.

Image via Nan Kempner - UNE AMÉRICAINE À PARIS. Robe de crep blanc e noir 1979.

VOGUE 2406. MISSES´DRESS AND BELT.- Dress with semi-fitted bodice and skirt gathering into below waistline seam, four inches (10 cm) below mid-knee or floor length, has back zipper closing, pockets in side seams, and self or contrast bias tie belt.  Full length sleeves gathered at cap and narrowing at wrist have zipper at lower edge (may be worn pushe up). Views A and C have contrast right front and left back bodice, left front and right back skirt and right sleeve.

Special Thanks to DUSTIN.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "la robe de campagne"

"Chez Alexandre", the great hairdresser. In the picture: Alexandre and Nicky Nancel. The model wears a two-piece printed silk dress (Abraham), signed by Yves Saint Laurent (Rive-Gauche Spring/Summer 1977). Image via L´OFFICIEL DE LA MODE - Les Éditions Jalou.

VOGUE 1805.- Misses´Blouse and Skirt. Loose-fitting, pullover blouse, slightly above-hip length with ruffle collar gathered into narrow bias neckband with attached tie ends, has round neckline, center front neckline slit with narrow band and elbow or full-length sleeves gathered at cap and elasticized at lower edge forming self ruffle. Purchased drawstring holds in fullness at waistline. Slightly flared skirt, four inches (10 cm) below mid-knee or evening length, with front and back gathered into waistband, has pockets in side seams, side zipper closing and hemline ruffle.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La robe sous-vêtements"

Yves Saint Laurent RIVE-GAUCHE Spring/Summer 1977. GYPSY STYLE.-  Ysolde Chrétien au "Piano Club" (Image via L´Officiel de la Mode).

Farrah Fawcett photographed by Richard Avedon  in 1977.

Model JASMINE KIRAT in American VOGUE, January 1977. Photo: Deborah Turveville.

 Photo by  Guy Bourdin

VOGUE 1642.- Misses´Top and Skirt. Lined-to-edge, above-hip length corselet top, close-fitting and slightly flared over high hip, has shoulder straps, princess seaming and front-laced closing with self or purchased drawstring. Flared, four-gote bias skirt, four inches (10 cm.) below mid-knee or ankle length, with front and back gathered into waistband, has side zipper closing and pockets in side seams. Topstitch trim.

RELATED POST.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "Les robes djellaba"

Yves Saint Laurent RIVE-GAUCHE Spring/Summer 1976. Image via L´Officiel de la Mode.    Location : "Lake Garden Palace" JAG MANDIR (India).

VOGUE 1482.-  Misses´Dress or Top and Pants. Very loose-fitting, straight dress, mid-calf or ankle length, or top, has buttoned bias neckband, front inset with neckline slit, extended shoulders and patch pockets. Seven-eighths length sleeves with mock bands (can be rolled up to desired length) or full-length sleeves gathered into buttoned cuffs. Straight-legged pants have elastricized waistline. Topstitching.

VOGUE 1483.- Misses´Dress or Tunic and Pants. Loose-fitting pullover dress, three inches (7,5 cm.) below mid-knee, or tunic with front and back gathered into one-piece yoke, has shaped stranding collar, front-buttoned band clsoing, extended shoulders, center front one-way pleat and side hemline slits.  With or without pockets in side seams. Full-length sleeves with plackets are gathered into buttoned band cuffs or above-elbow length rolled-up sleeves with buttoned tab trim. With or without purchased belt holding in fullness at waistline. Straight-legged pants have eleasticized waistline and pockets in side seams. Topstitching.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- La veste folk et le "kilt" coupe en biais.

VOGUE - Juillet 1990

VOGUE 2787.- Veste et Jupe (Jeune femme) Veste au-dessus des hanches, semi-ajustée et doublée, avec col debout, épaulettes et manches longues deux pièces (pisées aux entournures), à fentes soufflets à boutons; coutures galbantes (pas de coutures de côtés), et basque. Garniture et ceinture non comprises.  Jupe au-dessus du genou, croisée, avec ceinture boutonnée, devant côté droit plissé et bandes simulées.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La robe de gouvernante"

Collection Haute-Couture Printemps-Eté 1979.- "Les Classiques"

Image via L´OFFICIEL DE LA MODE "Les Editions Jalou".

Robe droite en lainage noir de dormeuil, très épaulée. Le col officier, la patte boutonnée et les poignets mousquetaires sont en satin blanc; ceinture de cuir et jupe fendue devant.
(Également sur la photo: robe de Christian Dior).

VOGUE 2310. Misses´Dress.- Loose-fitting, pullover dress, five inches (12,5 cm.) below mid-knee, has front band closing, shoulder pads, shaped standing collar, left side zipper, welt pockets and center front hemline slit.  Full length sleeves gathered at cap have french cuffs and zipper closing at lower edge.  View "A" has contrast collar, front band and cuffs. Purchased attache ribbon bow.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La robe à tunique"

Image via Les Editions Jalou - L´Officiel de la Mode.
Robe à tunique pour la collection RIVE-GAUCHE printemps-été 1976.
Photographie.- PATRICK BERTRAND.

VOGUE 1516. Misses- top, belt, skirt and pants.- Loose-fitting top, below-hip length, with front gathered to forward shoulder seams, has ponted collcar, deep cutaway armholes, front band slit and side inset bands cut-in-one with side pockets.  Full, full-length sleeves, gathered at cap to top and back of shoulder are gathered into wide buttoned cuffs.  With or without self tie belt holding in fullness at waistline.  Lined skirt, evening length, fitted and slightly flared below mid-knee, and lined straight-legged pants have waistband and side zipper closing.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "Pure Elégance"

Haute Couture Automne-Hiver 1978. Colection "Pure Elégance".

 

L´OFFICIEL DE LA MODE nº 645 de 1978. Texte brut de la page.- 

"Yves saint laurent ligne droite et très construite, les épaules sont larges et carrées, des plis en accentuent parfois le volume sur les manteaux.
Tailleurs à vrais vestons stricts ou à spencers, jupes- portefeuille gansées rasant le dessous d'un genou gainé de noir composent une silhouette aux proportions nouvelles.
Le noir est au tout premier plan, le jour comme le soir.
Des couleurs choc, le rouge avant tout mais aussi le bleu électrique et le rosé fuchsia lui sont opposés.
Alliances de tons sourds : prunelle et grenat, par exemple, notes vives de rosé acide ou de violet vif, bijoux importants, blouses ultra-féminines sont d'une élégance très sophistiquée".

Fourreau de satin coupé tout en biais et moulant comme une seconde peau, deux gros nœuds de velours sont posés à l'épaule et à la hanche, la jupe est fendue.
Image via L´OFFICIEL DE LA MODE - Les Éditions Jalou.

À droite.- Paletot en mohair gris-vert, veste courte en pied de poule, pantalon en flanelle foncée, blouse en crêpe de chine vert.
Image via L´OFFICIEL DE LA MODE - Les Éditions Jalou.

VOGUE 2272. MISSES´COAT, JACKET, PANTS AND BLOUSE.-  Very loose-fitting, unlined coat, two inches (5 cm.) below mid-knee length has front bands extending to back with four rows of trapunto stitching, pockets in side seams and two inches (5cm.) hem.  Full length sleeves are pleated at cap forming broad shoulder effect with five rows of trapunto stitching at lower edge forming cuff effect (may be worn turned back).  Topstitching. Semi-fitted, lined jacket, above-hip length, has shoulder pads, welt pockets and side front and side back seams (no side seams).  Full length two-piece sleeves have shaped turn-back cuffs.  Straight legged, cuffed pants have front pleated into waistband with belt carriers, mock fly front zipper closing and side front slanted pockets.  Loose-fitting blouse is gathered into collar extending into wide tie ends.  Full length sleeves are gathered at cap and pleated into buttoned cuffs.  Pants and flouse have edgestitching. Jacket, pants and blouse have topstitch trim.

Yves Saint Laurent Fall 1978 Haute Couture. Photographed by Arthur Elgort.

VOGUE 2183. MISSES´JACKET AND DRESS.- Very loose-fitting jacket, slightly above mid-knee length with cardigan neckline has front opening (center fronts will not meet), and full-length sleeves pleated and gathered at cap. FOR DOUBLE EDGE SCALLOPED LACE ONLY. Back wrapped dress, fitted through the bustline with straight silhouette and floor length at center front with hemline shaped slightly upward to back has purchased ribbon shoulder straps, tucked and pleated bustline center front, pleated left back upper edge.  Purchased foldover braid trim.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "La saharienne chemisier"

Printemps-été 1969. Collection tailleur saharienne et mariée patchwork.

Picture via "Les Editions Jalou" (L´Officiel de la Mode).- "Un lin blanc de Moreau, frais à porter, élégant et raffiné, a été choisi pour cet lensemble dont la tunique à manches courtes s'orne de quatre poches à revers".

 

VOGUE 2174. Misses´Two-Piece Dress. Loose-fitting top with pointed collar has front band with button closing.  Button-down patch pockets. Back yoke. Full length sleeves with French cuffs. Self belt. Topstitch trim.  Skirt with waistband has edge stitched released pleats. 

More patterns from this collection. 

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "Le manteau éclatant"

Automne-Hiver 1966. Collection "pop-art" et premier smoking.

"Yves saint Laurent a établi le vocabulaire vestimentaire de notre vie quotidienne… tel que le pantalon, tel que l'utilisation du caban, tel que le tailleur-pantalon, le smoking, etc., et ce n'est pas rien. À savoir qu'en 1967, le smoking c'était, mais, une explosion, c'était une révolution ! Comment la femme peut justement s'approprier ce vêtement qui symbolise en fait la masculinité même."

Pamela Golbin, conservateur au musée de la mode à Paris.

Image via "Les Editions Jalou" (L´Officiel de la mode).

VOGUE 1721. One-Piece dress and coat. Semi-fitted A-line dress is seamed below natural waist-line.  Constrast banding.  Patch pockets and belt carriers with top-stitch trim.  Slightly fitted double-breasted coat with rounded shaped collar and large flap trim has matingale belt and seven-eighths length sleeves with tab and button trim.

VPO - Yves Saint Laurent.- "Les robes russes"

Haute-Couture collection hiver 1976.- LES BALLETS RUSSES,

Juillet 1976 Collection Opéra-Ballet Russes

Collection Opéra-Ballet Russes, présentée pour la première fois dans l'histoire des défilés comme un spectacle, dans les salons de l'Hôtel InterContinental. Ce n'est peut-être pas la meilleure, mais à coup sûr la plus belle.  Une collection révolutionnaire, qui changera le cours de la mode dans le monde. 

Pictures from LES EDITIONS JALOU (L´Officiel de la Mode).

Picture from the PUBLIC DOMAIN.

Cover Magazine from L´OFFICIEL DE LA MODE - Les Editions Jalou.

VOGUE 1558  MISSES´JACKET, VEST, BLOUSE AND SKIRT. Loose-fitting, lined, three-quarter length jacket has standing shaped collar, extended shoulders, deep armholes, front button and loop closing, pockets in side seams and side hemline slits. Wide full-length sleeves have slits at lower edge with button and loop closing.  Loose-fitting, lined vest, without side seams, has round neckline and deep square armholes.  Purchases braid trim. Very loose-fitting pullover blouse, with front and back gathered into standing shaped collar, has front-buttoned band closing.  Full-length sleeves, set high on shoulders, are gathered at cap and into buttoned cuffs.  Flared, semi-circular bias skirt, three inches below mid-knee, mid-calf or evening length, has waistband, pockets in side seams and side zipper closing.  Topstitching. Purchased belt and scarf.

This pattern still available at MIKE-MINE-VOGUE on ETSY. 

VOGUE 1736 MISSES´JACKET, BLOUSE, SKIRT, PANTS AND SHAWL. Loose-fitting, three-quarter length, lined jacket has round neckline, extended shoulders, deep armholes and front button and loop closing.  Wide, full-length, two-piece sleeves have slits at lower edge and button and loop closing. Purchased flexible braid trim. Loose-fitting, pullover blouse with front and back slightly gathered into narrow bias neckband extending into tie ends has round neckline, front slit and full, full-length sleeves gathered at cap and into buttoned tab cuffs.  Flared, semi-circular skirt has waistband, pockets in forward side seams and side zipper closing. Topstitching.  Straight-legged pants are pleated into waistband and have pockets in side seams. Single-layer square shawl has self-fringe.  Purchased belt.

VOGUE 1738 MISSES´COAT, BLOUSE AND SKIRT. Very-loose-fitting lined coat, mid-calf length, has unlined hood, round neckline, front button and loop closing, extended shoulders, pockets in side seams, side hemline slits and wide full-length sleeves. Purchased tassel on hood and purchased belt holds in fullness at waistline.  Loose-fitting pullover blouse with front gathered into braid trimmed round neckline, has front button and loop closing, back yoke and full-length sleeves gathered at cap and gathered into buttoned cuffs.  Topstitch trim on cuff.  Very full DIRNDL skirt, mid-calf length, has waistband, pockets in side seams and side zipper closing.  Purchased flexible braid trim. Purchased belt.

VOGUE 1749 MISSES´JACKET, BLOUSE, SKIRT AND PANTS. Very loose-fitting, unlined jacket, below hip-length with front and back gathered into neckband extending into tie ends and with front and back gathered at shoulder seams has round neckline, front-buttoned band closing, patch pockets and side hemline slits.  Full-length sleeves with placket are set into cutaway armholes, gathered at cap and into buttoned cuffs. Topstitching. Loose-fitting blouse with front and back inside tucks tucked into shaped neckband has round neckline, attached self tie, neckline ruffle, front-buttoned closing and full-length sleeves gathered at cap and into buttoned band with ruffle at lower edge.  Slightly A-line skirt, three inches below mid-knee with front and back slightly gathered into waistband has pockets in side seams and back zipper closing.  Wide, straight-legged pants with front tucks and with front and back gathered into front-buttoned waistband has pockets in side seams and mock fly front zipper closing.  Topstitching. Purchased belt.

VOGUE 1761 MISSES´JACKET, BLOUSE AND SKIRT. Loose-fitting, lined, hiplenght jacket has round neckline, front-buttoned closing, upper welt pocket, lower patch pockets and wristlength sleeves gathered at cap.  Flexible braid trim.  Loose-fitting blouse with front and back gathered into front-buttoned neckband has self ruffle neckline, center back attached tie, front-buttoned band closing and full-length placket sleeves gathered at cap and into buttoned cuffs.  Skirt three inches below mid-knee or evening length, with front and back gathered into lined hip yoke has waistband, pockets in side seams and back zipper closing.  Topstitch trim. Purchased belt.

VOGUE 1762 MISSES´BLOUSE AND SKIRT. Loose-fitting pullover blouse, with front yoke slightly gathered into front-buttoned neckband, has neckline ruffle, center back attached tie, bront-buttoned band closing and self rublle at lower edge of front and back self lined yokes.  Full-length sleeves gathered at cap and into buttoned cuffs with self ruffle trim.  Edgestitching.  Topstitching.  Pullover, gathered skirt, three inches below mid-knee or below mid-calf length has elasticized waistline and pockets in side seams.  View A hast hemline ruffle.

VOGUE 1764 MISSES´CAPE, BLOUSE, SKIRT AND PANTS. Loose-fitting, unlined cape, top of claf or below calf length, has hood with purchased tassel, front purchased frog closing, shaped hemline and flat braid trim.  Sleeve openings are above wrist length. Loose-fitting, pullover blouse, slightly above-hip length, with front gathered into forward shoulder yoke has front-buttoned shaped standing collar, front-buttoned band, partially elasticized self drawstring at waistline, cut-in-square armholes and full-length sleeves et high on shoulders are gathered at cap and into buttoned cuffs.  Topstitching. Four tiered skirt, below calf length, has elastricized waistline.  Straight-legged pants have elasticized waistband and pockets in side seams.